The Craft of Spirit Making Vol. 1: Bourbon
Bourbon: As American as, well, Americans
So, did you partake in a little bourbon this Thanksgiving? Hopefully. And hopefully it was an Abbott & Wallace bourbon.
As we bask in the glow of being with family over the most American of holidays, I figured it was the perfect time to consider bourbon. Bourbon is, without question, a uniquely American Spirit. And my favorite pour.
Before even getting to the spirit itself, thinking of bourbon seems to conjure all kinds of personalities partaking in it, representing just about all of us. Roughnecks and cowboys with violence on the edges trading shots and stories of their scars. Highbrow couples with their noses in cocktail glasses jotting down adjectives in their “note” books (hibiscus finish… caramel on the front). There’s a Black Bourbon Society for African American bourbon enthusiasts and several LGBTQIA-owned distilleries. Bourbon is us.
The Business of Bourbon
The business of it, too, is rooted in America. The book “Bourbon Empire” details the fascinating history of the bourbon industry, and how it actually informed much of our economic system as much as it was informed by it. As a bootstrapping entrepreneur, I can confirm that the draw of making a living by way of making whiskey can be irresistible.
True, Americans swilled more rum and brandy before bourbon came along, but nothing is more popular nor more iconic as bourbon is today. You may not know what makes bourbon bourbon, but it’s all American, too. First, it must be distilled from at least 51% corn, a crop that originated in the Americas and one that, as we settled further and further west, was more available here than grains used for other whiskeys, like rye. In the end, corn provides the punch and that sweet caramel flavor Americans love.
Bourbon must also age in new American oak barrels. Legend has it that this practice has its roots in our unique history: Whiskey in oak barrels tasted better the longer it was stored as it traveled across the expanding territories. A happy discovery that gives bourbon its district bold flavor—vanilla, oak, leather and spice.
Bourbon is only made in America, but it is not only made in Kentucky. Kentucky makes some of the finest whiskey in the world of course, but bourbon can be made anywhere in America. Just like any American. And bourbon distillers (at least the ones worth their salt) aim to make theirs a reflection on place. I’m driven by this with Abbott & Wallace’s bourbon: What does the land provide here and how can we best preserve the character and integrity of the land it comes from?
Bourbon Crafted the Colorado Way
Colorado is located in a steppe climate zone characterized by high-altitude grasslands with low moisture and drastic temperature swings. All these factors have a huge impact on whiskey. Temperate-climate grasslands are cold and hardy, and generate more oils and proteins than other climates. This has an impact on a whiskey’s flavor, make no mistake.
Colorado whiskies are known for their distinct oaky finish, and Abbott & Wallace bourbon is no exception. The high, dry weather results in more evaporation from the barrels (we call this the “angels’ share”), so there’s more interaction with the barrel than in Kentucky. Basically, three years in Colorado could be like 12 somewhere where it’s both cold and humid.
Now, there’s folk here in Colorado who contract bulk spirits from out of state, blend it here, and call it Colorado bourbon. There’s nothing saying they can’t do this, legally speaking. But when you taste these side-by-side with an Abbott & Wallace bourbon, I think you’ll notice that it strips the bare essence of expression. The so-called “art of blending” is actually a shortcut: It’s easier to blend bad, okay, good, and great barrels together from who-knows-where than it is to make the juice from scratch and control the entire process. Craft distillers like Abbott & Wallace don’t take the easy way out, and we put our reputation on the line with every batch. Large distilleries or blenders can pick and choose their level of expressions.
Why Am I So Passionate About Bourbon?
Easy. I love it. Everything about it. The fields, the farmers, the grains, distilling it all by hand, the way it tastes. How it can take the edge off of a day, and how it brings people closer together.
And we want to make Abbott & Wallace bourbon a premium spirit that brings the fun. We’re not pretentious or snooty, and neither is our community. High quality does not have to be uptight. People have a drink mostly because they want to relax or have fun, after all. That’s the experience Abbott & Wallaces wants to provide. We’re serious about whiskey, and we seriously want you to enjoy yourself.
In the end, I have a deep appreciation for the different expressions in bourbon. And isn’t that the ultimate American spirit? A place at the table for all of us, past, present, and future.
Cheers,
John Abbott Young